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Working around retaining wall obstruction
Ken, we run into this quite a bit.
The two favourite methods of dealing with it are to either move the conduit or wall slightly so as to prevent the two from ever meeting. This is best since eventually one will need to be worked on and the other will create a PITA. The other method is to cut (VERY gently) through the conduit and install a couple of 90° elbows and a short piece of straight pipe so the conduit goes through the wall at as close to 90° as possible.
Don't forget, the bigger and especially longer the hole is, the less connection there is between the layers in that location. That will cause a weak spot that might cause if not accelerate the failure of the wall in that location.
If they must cross each others path at a shallow angle like that, try to make one go over the other instead of through. Often you can dig up enough of the conduit in each direction to lower it enough to clear the wall.
If at all possible, when a conduit crosses under a wall, protect the conduit with a 'bridge' consisting of sand around the conduit, and especially above, then a solid layer, concrete or preserved wood, then gravel. This will spread the load out and prevent the wall from settling and breaking open the conduit.
Best of luck.
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Working around retaining wall obstruction
Ken, the manufacturers statement is pendant one one single circumstance.
The earth on BOTH sides of the wall must be stable, and hopefully undisturbed.
If you are building a series of terraces, each will have the potential to shift, if only a little bit, that will progressively affect the next one.
For example, the highest wall shifts 2", the next 5" (2" + 3" , the next under the increased load moves maybe 9" (5" + 4", by the time you get a few terraces down it's moving more than a foot, if it hasn't fallen over.
IMHO, you need to use either GeoGrid (as Jeff mentioned) or a deadman every few feet to tie it back into the existing earth.
As EW also mentioned, gravity is the problem, if you join two things together, i.e. cement in a conduit, and the wall settles, the conduit will not last long. I think you'll find it's a LOT less work in the long run to either move the conduit or the proposed wall location.
Best of luck.
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Working around retaining wall obstruction
Ken, why can't you bring the conduit to the surface and go over the wall?
Or for that matter, put the shed (and generator) in a new location?
Best of luck.
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Working around retaining wall obstruction
Ken, if the only real reason for these walls is to stabilize the shed, there is another option. It might be less work than what you are proposing.
Drill holes with a PHD as deep as you can go a foot or so out from the existing shed. Then pour a footing in the bottom of each that contains small steel I-beams standing up, then back fill the holes with compacted sand. After they are ready have a steel beam bolted or welded to each forming a ring in a trench around the shed. Once that is done excavate (gently) all the soil between the ring beam and the shed, and a little ways under it's slab, then pour a new slab that runs under the existing one and around the ring beam.
The result will be that you have a) put deep footers under the building, and b) greatly increased the size of the slab and so increased the area that bears it's weight.
If you want more detailed info. just whistle. I'm in the midst of doing something similar under a 120+ year old log cabin right now.
Best of luck.
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